Passport Owners Association For Passport Owners and our Friends

At long last, we are moving toward replacing the OEM welding cable that Passport used to wire high-current runs in our boat. Coupled with the replacement of our old flooded batteries with new Lifeline AGMs (and thanks to those of you who helped with that decision), we should live in a new electrical world with POWER TO SPARE!

Hi Chuck
 
Sounds like your nav station is like mine. Five years ago my floor raised 1.5 inches just in front of the nav station and along to the first quarter of the water tank. I cut the 1"x1" teak board that runs along the bilge pull up boards. These 1X1's are the only boards that are screwed down to the hull. Next. take out the teak boards that run along the water tank/nav area. I took out about five feet. The teak is glued to 1/2" plywood. If all goes well you can reuse the teak. This is where that German instrument called Fein(expensive as gold) comes in handy. Once the teak is removed cut the plywood so you have an inch protruding out to glue and screw a new piece of plywood in. You can now chisel on this rusty/expanded pop metal. Some will come out easy but the rest is hard as a rock. I could only chisel back four inches but gave three inches of clearance from hull to floor. I still have the encapsulated pop outs under the water tank. Hopefully

Hi Chuck,

Get in touch with Don Fife. He is also a bit of a wood craftsman. He
removed two planks near the nav station. Then chipped out the ballast.
Then replaced the teak and holley same cabin sole. I believe his cut was on
the holley so minimal wood was lost. He then replaced it back where it

I have pulled my chainplates twice on my 1984 passport 40 and am pleased to
report no corrosion or cracking.

This may have to do with them not being glassed in, or, frankly, sealed well
at all. But no corrosion, so that's a good thing.

Michael

--
Passport Owners Association [link]

Hola Dennis, Que Pasa?

On Cayenne, a 1984 P40, there are several considerations

1. Take the sag out of the forestay. This requires about 1000 lbs in
moderate weather to about 2000 lbs in heavy upwind work. Beyond that,
you're just bending the hull. Jack Bieda on Trial Run used to say that you

Hola everyone
I just removed and repaired my roller furler and tensioned it back up.
but I don't want to go too far. It hadn't been properly tensioned by
the previous owner. Does anyone know the ft/lb numbers or something
else to go by? Especially the backstay.
Thanks all
Dennis

--
Passport Owners Association [link]

I can understand your concern about the unknown. In your demolition process, perhaps you will discover a way to expose all parts of the chainplates for inspection. Please let us know how it goes.
Gary Wilson P42 Sidetrack

--
Passport Owners Association [link]
To post to the group, use "reply all" or send email to PassportOwners@googlegroups.co m

Actually, lack of oxygen is not the cause of crevice corrosion. That
would be to say if you vaccum bagged a piece of metel cutting off
oxygen, it would corrode? I don't think so.

--
Passport Owners Association [link]
To post to the group, use "reply all" or send email to PassportOwners@googlegroups.co m

Trial Run: The steel punchings that were installed under the water
tank under the starboard bed and under the nav station, have been
rusting. The floor under the nav station has been bowed up wards about
an inch and the bunk sides are separated from the floor. . Does any
one have a suggestion for removing this ballast without disassembling

I don't know the condition of my chainplates, and that's enough of a
problem for me. I consider the chainplate design one of very few
design/build failures of the P42. (ie, That they cannot be inspected.)

First I am going to remove the teak and expose the glassin
chainplates. My plan is do this so that I can replace the teak. I've

Barry,

Thank you for posting this link. The photos are very informative and they remove a little of the mystery of gaining access to the chain plates. It is a little confusing that the sailing photos of Mary Francis on their website are of a Passport 40, not a 42.

I'm curious about your boat. Are your going to replace the chain plates because you know they are corroded? If so, how did you inspect them to find out?

Barry,

The below is a Passage 42, a Hunter sailboat not a Passport 42.

John

--
Passport Owners Association [link]
To post to the group, use "reply all" or send email to PassportOwners@googlegroups.co m
To reply to just the author, just use "reply:
For more options, go to

Attention to Association guru. Could you please put a hold on any mail to my address for the next two months whilst I am travelling in remote areas.

john wither
wayfarer

--
Passport Owners Association [link]
To post to the group, use "reply all" or send email to PassportOwners@googlegroups.co m

Another p42 chainplate report...

[link]

--
Passport Owners Association [link]
To post to the group, use "reply all" or send email to PassportOwners@googlegroups.co m
To reply to just the author, just use "reply:

Oh, be sure to follow the link at the top of the page: it shows the
bad chainplates.

--
Passport Owners Association [link]
To post to the group, use "reply all" or send email to PassportOwners@googlegroups.co m
To reply to just the author, just use "reply:
For more options, go to

There have been instances of bad chainplates on 42's
- [link]

Removing mine and replacing with titanium is on my tasklist for 2010.
I expect I will do something similar as shown in the above link.

- barry.kaplan
- mistress quickly p42

Harvey,

Gary is correct. I forgot about the 4" squares. John

--
Passport Owners Association [link]
To post to the group, use "reply all" or send email to PassportOwners@googlegroups.co m
To reply to just the author, just use "reply:
For more options, go to
[link]

Harvey,

My observations have been like John's, except when I replaced the windlass, I drilled some pretty large holes in the foredeck and was able to inspect the core. It is not balsa, but teak plywood. I was told by the broker when we bought it that the deck core is a checkerboard of 4" square plywood pads embedded in the fiberglass, then filled between and covered over with more fiberglass. The distinct 4" square pads keep any water leaks from migrating too far through the core. The overall thickness of the deck is about 2 inches. There was a 3/8" thick mild steel backing plate (very rusty) embedded in the fiberglass deck under the windlass, which I dug out and replaced with T6061 aluminum (exposed to view).

In his rigging seminar, Brion Toss was talking with some people who
have an older Ericson and his statement was something like "If they
are glassed in and hard to get at, all the more reason to get at
them". It's not the salt water that causes corrosion, it's lack of
oxygen. Salt water and warm climates speed up the chemical process of

Harvey,

I'll attempt to answer your questions.

My 42 is rigged with a 125 Jenoa. The boat is cutter rigged. I have a mast
mounted 17" spinnaker pole with a 6:1 purchase. The pole can be managed by
one person. The set up works great for downwind work. In light air I find
the 130 and stay sail work fine for me moving the boat adequately. More air