Passport Owners Association For Passport Owners and our Friends

With respect to the Datamarines-refurbishing is a option, unless you're sold on new stuff. I had my wind instrument refurbished by Datamarine and upgraded to NMEA a few years ago and I'm quite pleased. I can now interface with the autopilot. For me the issue was retaining analogs in the same pods. Don't recall the cost, but I'm a cheap guy.

Agreed.  The Fein and a Dremel have proven their worth time and time again.  With the advent of Fein-like multitools, you can now by non-Fein blades at less cost.
 
Bob Peahl
The Fein tool is worth every penny. It will last and the quality of theaccessories is great. If you are going to redo the caulking on the deckthere is no better tool. I use it for hard to reach spots when sanding, ie.corners, edging, etc. A regular finishing sander with 80-100 grit aluminumoxide was what I used for my decks.Good luck,Georges/v Wind ThiefRichmond, CA-----Original Message-----From: passportowners@googlegroups.co m[mailto:passportowners@google groups.com] On Behalf Of P. SherwoodSent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 9:51 AMTo: Passport OwnersSubject: [Passport] multi toolsAm looking ahead at tasks such as stripping and lightly sanding the exterior teak, sanding and refinishing some of the woodwork in the head, and polishing the interior port window frames. Does anyone have any experience with or recommendations about multi-tools (Fein Multimaster, Rockwell Sonicrafter, others)?The Fein is breathtakingly expensive, and everyone gripes about how much replacement blades, etc., cost. Do you really get what you pay for? TIA for any advice. Cheers,Phils/v CynosureBahia de Caraquez-- Passport Owners Association [link] post to the group, use "reply all" or send email toPassportOwn...@googlegroups. comTo reply to just the author, just use "reply:For more options, go to[link] Passport Owners Association [link] post to the group, use "reply all" or send email to PassportOwn...@googlegroups.co mTo reply to just the author, just use "reply:For more options, go to[link]

I use Epifanes rubbed effect varnish. I do not like the shiny finish on the interior, except on the floors. The shiny finish makes the teak look like plastic. This is especially true on the hatch surrounds. The rubbed effect gives a nice warm tone to the teak.

Jean

1985 Passport 42, #44

Hello,

If you have movement of the cap rail and the fiberglass you usually will get
water in under the varnish film. I had this issue on Dream Keeper my P42.
Although our caprail is more squarish than on the 40 the issue is I think
the same. What we did which was recommended by Collie Island Boat Works was

We used High gloss for the bulkhead trim. I use Epiphanes gloss on the
bulkhead trim. It wears better. Same for the teak hatch surrounds. Our
interior was originally 5 coats of hand rubbed satin of some sort. Thanks
for the tip below.

John

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Passport Owners Association [link]

I have it on the "highest authority" : Interlux 60 RUBBED EFFECT
VARNISH.
And I have used it myself many times.  It blends right in.

Louis Raphael
Buttermilk

What type of varnish is recommended
for interior surfaces?

Thanks

1991 Passport 40

We love the teak, but is it ever a chore to maintain! The only material that I have ever had survive more than a season is Sikkens Cetol with a final coat of their Marine Gloss. I prepped by sanding/stripping down to bare wood, then built up layer on layer making sure that there was a suitable drying time between coats. My first attempt at multi-season coatings failed by trying to apply too many coats and not allowing sufficient drying time.

speaking of tools, late last season I stripped the stern toe rail using the
orange stripper found at home depot and conventional Sandvik scrapers. two
coats of stripper worked well and I think it was faster than a Fein which I
have. For finishing, I used penetrating epoxy (2 coats) as a base and 5

What type of varnish is recommended for interior surfaces?

Thanks

1991 Passport 40
Hull 148
Free as Air

Ed Navitski
Director, Applications Development
Information Technology Group
Phone: (973) 882-2123
Cell: (973)-296-8085
Fax: (973) 808-7571

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Passport Owners Association [link]

The Fein tool is worth every penny. It will last and the quality of the
accessories is great. If you are going to redo the caulking on the deck
there is no better tool. I use it for hard to reach spots when sanding, ie.
corners, edging, etc. A regular finishing sander with 80-100 grit aluminum
oxide was what I used for my decks.

We've got a Fein Multi and its worth what you pay for it. Yes the blades are
expensive but if you use your head and don't run it full speed all the time,
they will last. The old rule, keep the heat down on harder materials will
pay big dividends...slow the darn thing down.
I can honestly say that it has saved us countless hours in the rebuild of

Am looking ahead at tasks such as stripping and lightly sanding the
exterior teak, sanding and refinishing some of the woodwork in the
head, and polishing the interior port window frames. Does anyone have
any experience with or recommendations about multi-tools (Fein
Multimaster, Rockwell Sonicrafter, others)?

A new Facebook page dedicated to Passport Yachts has been published,
simply called Passport Yachts Europe. Some very interesting pictures
showing the latest Passport 515CC in build at the factory.
News and events also.

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Bill,

You should be able to use the old hole. If your going smaller which NavCom
utilizes a smaller hole, you can do so. Put tape on the bottom of the hole
after removal of the old unit. Filled with epoxy filler thickened with
microballs. Then fiberglassed on both sides. Then re-drilled a smaller

Regarding your question #4, I am not sure you need a new hole for a new
depth sounder. I used the old hole for a new depth sounder last year but I
did have to carefully grind the hole to make the diameter slightly larger to
accommodate the new instrument.
Regards,
Bob

-----Original Message-----

Hello all,

We will be pulling our 1984 P40 soon for her bottom painting session. I would like to do some more in-depth inspections and maintenance while she's on the hard.

1. With this vintage Passport, how does one go about greasing the seacocks? What lube should I use? I'll bet that it's never been done, so I can imagine that things will be tight. Advice? To my knowledge, all the seacocks will open/close now, but I'm sure they all need lubricating and certainly need inspection.

Sent from my iPhone

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And go to genuinedealz.com for fair prices on cable.
Jon Heidelberger
Whitehawk P41

-----Original Message-----
[mailto:passportowners@googleg roups.com] On Behalf Of ChinaDoll
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2010 9:36 PM
To: Passport Owners

Not too many amps unless you need to use your housebank to start your

Not too many amps unless you need to use your housebank to start your
engine. Size the same as your start bank to engine cable. Depending on
the run length of the positive cable it could be smaller but not by
much.

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Several years ago I removed the steel punchings without taking up the
floor.

I cut the large vertical support that can be seen when the deck plates
are removed and removed it. Looking forward it is to ones' right

I found that this fore and aft beam was not solid all the way to the
hull. There was a large section that did not reach to the hull and