Passport Owners Association For Passport Owners and our Friends

Exactly the setup I was considering. Don Casey has an article about this at
the BoatUS site. However, it will require a new through-hull for the higher
capacity pump? And wouldn't you need a vented loop on the smaller pump as
well?

Brian

-----Original Message-----
[mailto:passportowners@googleg roups.com] On Behalf Of Michael

That's undoubtedly true, but it's also true of a centrifugal pump down
in the bilge.

I think that the secret is for at least the "deep" pump to use a
somewhat narrower diameter hose, so there's less of a column of water to
goosh back. Hmmm.

As we talk about this, I'm thinking that my ideal setup will be two

Those of you who mounted the pump high: When the pump switches off,
doesn't all that water in the hose up to the pump run back into the
bilge? I understand a check valve prevents this, but they restrict
flow and get clogged up. And thanks for all the replies!

Brian

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Passport Owners Association [link]

I have done a similar thing as Bill did.
My bilge pump is located in a locker in the main salon, right near the
thru hull where the bilge goo exits.
There is a barrier between the pump and the contents of the locker.
The float switch is on a stick and platform in the bilge.
The pump is one of those kind with the the belt sometimes used for water

OK, OK, OK! Most of you are not old enough to remember back in the last
century when I wrote extensively deploring the "joys of pumps in the bilge"
of the Passport 40. Does no one remember my biblical descriptions of the
joys of getting the pump out of the bilge? About how much fun it is to
remove yet another of those diabolical float switches which, with

As I said, I used a piece of 2 inch wide aluminum stock and bent it into a "Z" shape. At the lower end is the pump, at the upper end it sits on the muffler box. I used two small wing bolts to attach a small "T" bar on the upper horizontal part of the Z so that it doesn't fall into the bilge. Works well.

Through a very embarassing set of events, I am having to redo the bilge
pump. Which is fine, since the switch had died.

I have had a pump on a stick for a while, and that works pretty well.
However, I am thinking of doing what Bill did and using a diaphragm pump
located above the bilge, as either the lower (low capacity) or upper

Looks like I may need to install a new bilge pump and just wondering
how other P40's are set up. Access to the low area of the bilge is
impossible. One person suggested attaching the pump to a pole that you
could lower down to the bilge floor, and then fix the pole up higher.
This has the advantage of being able to easily access the pump as

I don´t think you´ll be wasting your time. 292 is
the right stuff for sealing the chainplates, but
the 291 is a good multi-purpose sealant. It looks
as though it´s not as elastic as the 292 and
doesn´t bond as strongly, though, but that could
be a comparison between "plenty good enough" and "huge overkill."

I bought Sikaflex 291 LOT through Wesr Marine and brought it down to
seal my chain plates at my deck,with the teak removed. Many people
suggest 292. I can't get 292 in Mexico at all. Is 291 sufficient or
will I be wasting my time and causing potential for leaks if I use the
291?

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Passport Owners Association [link]

are we talking about P40's? if I was ever in the chain locker, the boat
better be damn well anchored or docked so I cannot imagine a switch in the
locker being used that often. If it was needed, the old super manual
windlass (me) would have been hauling away before then.

the only two reasons I have been in the chain locker was to attempt to

We replaced our Maxwell with a Lofrans vertical windlass and I have a couple of thoughts to pass along. Lofrans says to add a second hard wired switch somewhere, to act as a backup. This is still on my to-do list, but I think I will put one up forward in the chain locker. It would be quick and easy to install there, and it may prove useful someday if I want to be up there positioning the chain while retrieving the anchor. I would also like one back in the cockpit.

Thanks for everyone's help! I think I will just go back to foot
switches for now.

Michael - I gotta ask how you won the regatta by anchoring by hand?!

Brian

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Passport Owners Association [link]
To post to the group, use "reply all" or send email to PassportOwners@googlegroups.co m

I like having the switches on the foredeck on Wind Witch, but not for
anything to do with the windlass (strictly speaking anyway). It has to do
with the singularly best system I ever added onto the boat - the wash down
pump! Let's face it...the goop that comes up smells God awful, especially in

I've replaced the windless switch to a covered plastic one. Our old Maxwell windlass has no power-down capability, so it's up the bow regardless. With the cover, we're much less likely to inadvertently press the button and jam the anchor shaft into the bow roller.

Be sure to take care of any exposed deck core before you button up that project!

When I pulled my windlass and foot switches I
just cleaned up and rehabbed the foot switches
and reinstalled them. I since have bought new
foot switches of the same type and will install
them someday, pretty soon, in the Great and
Shining Future. It was by far the least
expensive option, the switches last a really long

An approach, which we have on our boat, is to have a remote switch for the
solenoid mounted in the cockpit, in addition to the footswitches (up and
down) on the foredeck. This permits me to more easily anchor when single
handed. I approach the final anchoring location at very slow speed with the

Wireless is a cool thing, but if you drop it, or the battery dies, or
something interferes, you are on the rocks before you can say "I did it
myself"

From sad experience, I can say "always have a wired way of working safety
gear."

Not that that helps me, as my wired relay box has corroded in the damp chain

I pulled the Lofrans windlass and foot switches off to refinish my
decks, and now I am debating about what type of switch to go with.
Initially I was thinking of a wireless remote (like a Lewmar). Now I
am thinking of replacing the footswitches, to at least have a wired
backup, and then adding a remote at some point. It seems the wired

Bob, I love the analog Datamarine knotmeter/log &depth sounder, now 26+
years along and still working. I didn't know about refurbishing or that
Datamarine was still in business. Do you have particulars? Many thanks,
Billy Manana, Wind Witch, P40 #53

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Passport Owners Association [link]