Passport Owners Association For Passport Owners and our Friends

Ahoy: One of the best updates done on my 84 P40 was to cut out the stb storage locker. After we cut it out, we glassed a lip onto the insert and ground the area under the lid to match the new insert. Sounds like a big project but in reality it was not too big a job. Less than a thousand dollars and made a big difference in access to work near the transom and steering gear. Pics available.

So, you don't have a starboard "catch-all" lazarette? I suppose that I could remove the entire compartment and work it that way. What about taking seas on her stern? No problem with water down into that precious hold?
On our 1984 P-40 (hull #78), there are no access points for below the cockpit spaces. The only way in is through the companionway entrance. With the starboard-side aft berth (afterbirth?), there is no way to access the starboard quarter at all, and for port-side, one must shinny around cockpit drain through-hulls/hose, and such. Physically, I'm not sure there is any way to access the backstay chainplate bolts. I'd love to remove an ancient loran antenna base, but I simply can't reach it. There is plastic pipe that leads from the engine compartment to the port-side stern dorade and a now-defunct squirrel cage fan to ventilate the engine compartment. At least, that's what I've always thought it did. The presence of the pipe in the dorade prevents access to the loran base.

Same set up on my 87. I like the starboard lift out tub to check on things periodically.
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-----Original Message-----
To: William Ennis<ben...@ak.net>; Passport Owners<PassportOwners@googlegr oups.com>

Maybe '84s were built a little differently (I
have an '87). I can get at the transom from the

Maybe '84s were built a little differently (I
have an '87). I can get at the transom from the
starboard lazarette (I got rid of that lift-out
tub that was in there once upon a time), less
easily now than before I installed the hydraulic
autopilot but still well enough to reach the
antenna tuner, backstay chainplate bolts, and a

They are on the deck at the level of the teak rubrail. On Cayenne,
that's a pretty wide deck. Not on the cockpit sole.
M

Hi, Michael,
Round deck plates? 6-8 in diameter? You walk over them and no leaks? They sealed the cockpit sole wood core?
B.

Hi Bill,
Mine is a BIRD. I don't know the inch specs, but each size cuttless has a name for the size and the one we use is a BIRD. I do know we have a 1-1/4" shaft.

Hope this helps.

Jeff
Adagio, P-40 #109, 1986

On Cayenne, it appears that the prior owners cut large access ports in
the deck, did what they had to do, and then installed deck plates.
Seemed to work pretty well...

Hello,
Does anyone know the size of the cutlass bearing for our P40s?
We're trying, valiantly, to install a Hydrovane. Does anyone know of any way to reach the transom? We have a 1984 P40 and can only reach the transom from the port side, and that not very well. I'd love to hear of some hose that I can disconnect to gain full access!

Regarding slow starting, I had purchased hotter glow plugs to install,
but after (a) new wiring, (b) moving the start battery closer to the
motor and (c) adjusting the valve lifters, the thing starts so easy I do
not need them. Cool, huh?
Or hot...
Michael

Not a good thing, but not necessarily a Very Bad Thing. First, unlike gasoline, diesel fuel is a natural lubricant and non-flammable under the conditions likely to occur in a crankcase. There are 2-cycle diesels that inject the fuel (no added oil) right into the crankcase.
Most likely cause of this kind of contamination is slow starting, as every time the injector squirts without ignition, the fuel has to go somewhere--out the exhaust or, more likely, down the cylinder wall into the oil pan. Running at operating temperature (180 degrees) vaporizes the diesel fuel and it is burned via the crankcase breather connected to the intake.

Well, someone hit bill with the cranky stick this morning. The reason
he always gets black dogs, by the way, is that they don't show the
grease stains.
Of course, you know that fuel in the oil is a Very Bad Thing depending
on amount of contamination. Here is what appears to be a useful and
thoughtful discussion of contaminants in the oil.

When we had fuel in the oil of our Nanni on Wind Witch, we fixed it real good. The fix is called YANMAR! G'luck.

It wasn´t with a Nanni but with my Perkins 4.108
that I had a comparable problem -- diesel fuel in
the crankcase oil and crankcase oil in the fuel;
rising oil levels on the dipstick and ugly
blackness rapidly fouling fuel filters. The
problem turned out to be the seals in the
injector pump. About a boat unit ($1K) or 1.5

Ahoy: Imagine the dismay when my last oil analysis came back with fuel in the oil. Quite a bit actually. Enough to make the level a bit high. Could be from a bad injector, or a couple of hours of slow, cold boat moving this winter. The engine is the Nanni Mercedes with only 4000 hours. Any similar experiences and hopefully solutions? Thanks for the help

Well, guys, you could forget all the alternative plumbing possibilities
and consider a Sealand Vacuflush (
_[link] ([link]) ) connected
to your existing system. We've had flawless performance with one for

Ian,
Mine were all removed for my epoxy new bottom. It is easier to roll on
without them in the way. My understanding is that the bronze through hulls
require a different primer for bronze before the epoxy or bottom paint goes
on. I would tape the holes shut to prevent reducing the size of the through

When one applies high build epoxy to the hull, should one mask off the
through hulls, or can they be painted over?

Wine cork in the drain hole.
Louis Raphael
Buttermilk

J-P,
What an interesting observation you have made. It suggests that, as cold
air sinks out of the refrigerator, it is replaced with warm(and humid air
from the bilge, thus being a prime source of the ice buildup therein. The
bail sponge, acting to block cold air loss, keeps the warm air out. That